I'm not sure about how this trip is going to go down. We have folks coming from around the state, people with differing goals and climbing experience. Only one of us has climbed in this area before. We have no idea about the state of the NPS cabin we reserved. The list goes on but it boils down to this: There is ample opportunity for this trip to go tits up.
Thomas, Cory, Erica and myself drove down today from Fairbanks. The 5 hour ride wasn't too bad and the roads were clear until about 20 miles North of Slana. Galen, Jason and Rick drove up from Palmer and arrived late in the evening.
 |
| The Crew |
Tonight we are crashing at The Medinger Homestead in Slana. Bob and Lara are friends of Cory's and they have been gracious enough to allow our climbing party to crash in their guest cabin and home. They have quite the place. We pulled in to dumping snow and waning light. After brief introductions and a tour of the place, we were immediately helping butcher a caribou Bob had recently shot. We then had a fantastic dinner of caribou stew and sat around sharing stories for quite some time.
There was something very special about the whole evening. The combination of hospitality and helping our hosts put up the winter's meat created an atmosphere that makes me love this state so much. Bob and Lara clearly have a deep seated love of this country and the mountains that surround their home; it's infectious.
Day 2- Climbing the Corridor
We woke up early (5am) with the intention to roll out of Slana at 630. We finally got going around 7 and headed down the Nabesna Road. It was still snowing hard in Slana but quickly diminished as we headed toward the climbs. We arrived at the trailhead to find two other cars there. Damn! We didn't get up early enough.
We had no idea how many people were up there or what climbs they were on. There were 7 of us and could easily create a dangerous situation if we were all crowded into the narrow canyon. We decided to head up there and check things out just in case. If it looked unsafe, we could back off and climb another day; we were here for a week.
It ended up working out in our favor. There was a party of 2 on Wing and a Prayer and another party on the Corridor. Galen, Rick and Jason went out first and began soloing the route. The rest of us went through the motions of figuring out how to climb the route. We had varying skill levels and comfort levels with soloing. The ice on many of the pitches was useless for ice screws; even if we placed gear, it was largely symbolic and probably wouldn't do shit in the case of a fall.
 |
| Erica crushing the first pitch of the Corridor |
We ended up trading leads and and got up the route in good time. The route is tall and heads deep into a narrow canyon. Each step of ice is short (maybe 10m max) and not steep. The ice was fairly wet and allowed for good sticks with the ice tools. Our descent was made easier by the fact that the v-threads for the raps were already made.
Overall, it was a great day of climbing. It's amazing how you forget little things between ice climbing season. How you like to rack your gear, the swing of your tools, the most efficient way of staying warm at the belays. It was a fun day, and a great route for a climbing shakedown. With one route ticked off, we would be able to climb more efficiently in the days to come. At least that's the plan...
Stayed out at the homestead again. The drive is long but the hospitality is amazing. Jack the dog got into the bacon grease and we drunkenly gave him a bath.
Day 3- Searching for the Chub
Today we decided to head up the Skookum Trail in search of ice we had heard rumors about. Galen was only with us for the weekend and he wanted to get on Spring Fling. That route has either an heinous walk off or a sketchy rap. We decided to limit the number of climbers on it; Galen, Rick and Jason would tackle Spring Fling and the rest of us would look for The Chub.
 |
| Thomas approaching The Chub |
We had a pleasant hike with our packs up a nice trail. We then knew we had to get off the trail and head towards some steeper cliffs. Still no ice in sight, we kept hiking; now tackling thick alders on a steep slope. We finally gained the ridge and had a view of ice that looked semi manageable; we had found The Chub. We made it to the bottom of the climb and had a gentle heart to heart. Lower angle cauliflowered ice rose into a vertical pillar that topped out in what appeared to be thin ice. We swung some tools and tried to convince ourselves to take the sharp end. Nobody wanted to. We retreated under the overhanging rock cliffs for lunch. I pulled out my flask and quickly finished it. I was in no shape to climb, let along lead steep ice. In the end we decided to head back to Slana and relax for the day. The Chub looked to be too much for us.
 |
| Northern Lights from the Medinger Homestead in Slana |
We got back mid afternoon and hung our gear to dry and did some chores for Bob and Lara. Mt. Sanford was out clearly for the first time of this trip. In the evening we played drinking games, told stories, saunaed and played more drinking games. It seems like tomorrow will be a rest day.
Day 4- Moving to the Viking Lodge
After last night, it was a slow start to the morning. We got up, packed our gear and cleaned up around the homestead. Galen headed back to Palmer. It was great to climb with him again.
We are moving our base of operations out to the NPS cabin we had reserved; The Viking Lodge. We got the the trailhead around 2pm. It was about a 5 minute walk up to the cabin. We spent the afternoon hauling gear and cutting wood. The cabin is huge compared to the White Mountain's cabins we are used to staying in. We spent the evening relaxing and playing Settlers of Catan. It's getting cold. 0F outside. The ice could be brittle tomorrow!
 |
| The Viking Lodge |
Day 5- Wing and a Prayer...kinda
Windy and cold this morning. Not the kind of day that motivates one to get out and climb. We headed to the parking spot for both The Corridor and Wing and a Prayer. There was a lot of indecision at the trailhead. In the end, Thomas, Erica and I headed up to Wing and a Prayer and the others went back to the cabin to hike and relax.
 |
| Erica on Wing and a Prayer |
The narrow canyon blocked most of the wind and the cold temps had solidified some of the wet ice. We climbed the first 60m of Wing and a Prayer. Above us lay a pitch of ice too steep and scary looking for us to climb. We rapped back to the base, happy to have at least swung tools on such a cold and windy day.
Beers and games back at the cabin for the evening. Tomorrow we tackle Spring Fling!
Day 6- Spring Fling
Early morning. It all comes down to this. We were packed last night. Pre-made breakfast burritos on the woodstove. We get out the door on time, and arrive to the parking area just as it's getting light. It's cold still but the wind has died. Thomas, Erica and I head to the base of the climb. This climb is steep and long. The rapel is shitty. Let's do this!
 |
| Thomas and Spring Fling |
The first pitch its steep and narrows at the top. I get a tool hopelessly stuck. I'm well above my last ice screw, which I'm trying desperately to forget is threaded into shit ice. Luckily, I'm able to reach behind the ice so I can shake out my arms and legs. With my muscles a tiny bit refreshed, I'm able to pull over the top and free my tool. Another 30 meters of snow lead to the belay and I bring the others up. If this route is like this the whole way up, it's going to be a long day.
Thomas takes the next two leads, including the chockstone pitch which requires a bit of mixed climbing. He made good work of them; as they, like the first pitch, had fairly minimal places to place protection. With no water to running over the ice to heal the climb, sections looked a bit like swiss cheese from all the previous ice screw placements.
Erica got the next pitch which took us beneath a beautiful windbell. The beta we got from the others said that this was the last pitch but we probably should split it into two pitches as we only had 60m ropes.
I lead out from the belay and climbed about 30 meters to another good area for an anchor. I brought the others up and then lead out again, this time going for the top. Steep and fun ice ran up a narrow corridor. The light was starting to fade.
"10 meters!" Thomas called up the canyon. Shit. Not enough rope to make the top.
Climb some more. There has got to be somewhere decent to make a belay.
Three meters of rope left.
This spot will have to be as good as any. Ice screws in (finally some good ice!) and anchor built, the others come up and pass me at the belay to reach the top. Whew! What a great climb!
We begin the rap in dwindling light. The headlamps come out as we make our way down. Each rap is fairly straight forward but dangerous due to the many loose rocks that our ropes may knock down on us. As we pull the rope for the final time, I'm super stoked. Healthy amounts of fear, physical strain and a long day created the perfect cocktail to finish this trip. We hiked back to the car in the dark and returned to a nice warm cabin. Rick, Jason and Cory had climbed Wing and a Prayer that day; with Rick putting up an incredible lead on the daunting and scary pitch that turned us back just days before. Heavy drinking and games made for a great last evening in the Viking Lodge.
Day 7- Heading Home
We had a lazy morning of Catan and food after last night's shenanigans. We cleaned the cabin and hauled our gear down the the cars. A long and uneventful drive back to Fairbanks was all that remained of our trip.
 |
| Mt. Sanford from the Viking Lodge |
Overall, it was an amazing time. Great people in an awe inspiring landscape. Wrangell St. Elias National Park and Preserve is an area of the state I don't spend enough time in. The mountains are stunning. My attempts to put the feeling the mountains instil in my heart and soul fail to do justice to what these areas truly mean to me. These wild and vertical landscapes call to me, speak to me, and drive me to get out more and push myself harder.
I will be back, that's certain. Thank you to all who made this trip possible and thank you so much to everyone who was able to share the love of the mountains with me.
